Description
This is a true Siberian epic: a road trip encircling Lake Baikal, the planet’s deepest and one of the clearest lakes. Expect dramatic contrasts—rocky capes, pine forests, transparent water, dunes of the Tazheran steppe, Buddhist datsans, and alpine valleys in the Sayan foothills. Why go: you get the widest possible Baikal picture in one journey and can choose detours to quiet, little-visited corners. Tourist pressure is high in Listvyanka, Olkhon, and Goryachinsk in July–August, but low on the north and eastern stretches. Total distance depends on detours, typically 2200–2600 km. Comfortable duration is 9–12 days; fast travelers do it in 7–8, but you will skip side trips and need long driving days.

Start of the route
Irkutsk. Stock up on cash, fuel, snacks, mosquito repellent, and download offline maps. Visit Taltsy Museum or the historic center if you have extra time.

End of the route
Irkutsk. Return via the southern shore and Slyudyanka–Baikalsk segment, then close the loop back to the city.

Route points
Irkutsk → Listvyanka → Buguldeika → Olkhon Island (Khuzhir, Cape Khoboy) → Kachug area → Severobaikalsk → Nizhneangarsk → Barguzin Valley → Ust-Barguzin → Goryachinsk → Ulan-Ude → Ivolginsky Datsan → Arshan (Tunka Valley) → Baikalsk → Slyudyanka → Irkutsk

We will see (POI, museums, etc.)
– Baikal Museum (Listvyanka)
– Taltsy Museum of Wooden Architecture (near Listvyanka)
– Circum-Baikal Railway viewpoints (southwest shore, accessible by side trips and boat/train excursions)
– Shaman Rock and Cape Burkhan (Khuzhir, Olkhon Island)
– Cape Khoboy (northern tip of Olkhon)
– Tazheran Steppe viewpoints (west shore)
– BAM-era sites and local museum (Severobaikalsk)
– Hot springs of Goryachinsk and Barguzin Bay
– Barguzin Valley landscapes and St. Nose Peninsula vistas
– Ivolginsky Datsan (near Ulan-Ude)
– Kyngarga waterfalls and mineral springs (Arshan, Tunka Valley)
– Sobolinaya Gora ski area (Baikalsk)
– Slyudyanka marble railway station and lakeshore panoramas

Roads
Quality: Mixed. Main federal highways (R258 Baikal between Irkutsk and Ulan-Ude) are paved and generally good. North and some eastern segments include long, lonely stretches, occasional construction, and patched asphalt; some side roads to capes and springs are gravel or washboard. Tolls: none on the loop. Speed limits: typically 60 km/h in towns, 90 km/h on rural highways unless posted otherwise. Cameras: fixed and mobile cameras are frequent on R258 and near towns; expect automated fines. Infrastructure: dense fuel network on Irkutsk–Ulan-Ude corridor; sparser between Olkhon, Severobaikalsk, and Barguzin—plan refuels early. 92 and 95 octane are common; diesel widely available. Service: basic tire and repair shops in all major towns (Khuzhir, Severobaikalsk, Ulan-Ude, Baikalsk); carry a full-size spare. Parking: plentiful at attractions, often informal gravel lots; paid guarded parking at hotels in cities.

What to drive
Any reliable crossover or SUV with at least 180 mm clearance is ideal. A sedan can complete the loop if you avoid rough side tracks and drive carefully. Tires: fresh all-season or all-terrain; for extensive gravel, AT tires with reinforced sidewalls are best. Carry a second spare or a puncture kit, compressor, tow strap, jump starter, and extra washer fluid. Navigation: offline maps and a paper backup. For motorcycles: ADV or dual-sport 650–1200 cc, luggage racks, hand guards, and tires suitable for mixed surfaces; a fuel range of 300 km is recommended.

Budget
Assumptions: 10 days, 2400 km, fuel consumption 8–11 l/100 km, 1 USD ≈ 90 RUB.
– Fuel: 12000–25000 RUB (135–280 USD), depending on vehicle and detours
– Lodging: 3000–8000 RUB per night mid-range → 30000–80000 RUB total (335–890 USD)
– Food: 1200–2500 RUB per person per day → 12000–25000 RUB (135–280 USD)
– Ferries and local transport (Olkhon ferry in summer, occasional boat/entry fees): 1000–4000 RUB (11–45 USD)
– Sight tickets, guides, hot springs: 2000–6000 RUB (22–67 USD)
Estimated total per couple sharing: 80000–160000 RUB (890–1780 USD). Solo travelers can cut costs with hostels and self-catering.

Accommodation
– Irkutsk — Courtyard by Marriott Irkutsk City Center (city center)
– Listvyanka — Hotel Mayak (waterfront by the pier)
– Khuzhir, Olkhon Island — Baikal View Hotel
– Severobaikalsk — Hotel Sever (central)
– Maksimikha, Barguzin Bay — Baikalskaya Riviera (lakeside resort)
– Goryachinsk — Baikal Dacha Hotel (near hot springs)
– Ulan-Ude — Baikal Plaza Hotel (Sovetskaya Square)
– Arshan — Sayany Hotel or local guesthouses (near Kyngarga River)
– Baikalsk — Sable Mountain Resort lodging or Galaktika Hotel (near Sobolinaya Gora)
– Slyudyanka — Local guesthouses near the station and lakeshore

Food
– Listvyanka — Cafe Proshly Vek (local omul and fish dishes)
– Khuzhir — Baikal View Restaurant; Nikita’s Homestead dining hall
– Severobaikalsk — Cafe Uyut (simple Siberian fare)
– Goryachinsk — Yurta Cafe (homestyle meals near springs)
– Ulan-Ude — Baikal Plaza Restaurant; Buryat cuisine spots for buuzy and pozy
– Arshan — Suutei Tsai Cafe (tea, dumplings, soups)
– Baikalsk — Sobolinaya Gora Cafe (comfort food near the ski base)

Safety
Police presence is regular on federal roads; enforcement is strict on speeding and overtaking lines. Crime is generally low in tourist areas; use common sense and keep valuables out of sight. Do not offer or solicit bribes; handle stops politely, show documents, and accept official fines if issued. Wildlife and stray animals may cross roads at dawn/dusk. Mobile coverage is good near towns, weak in the north and mountains—carry an external battery and tell someone your plan.

Best time to go
Late June to early September offers warm weather, open ferries, and dry roads. May and late September are quieter but colder nights and occasional snow at altitude are possible. Winter brings unique ice roads and festivals, but driving is only for experienced winter travelers with proper tires and recovery gear.

Tips and warnings
– Olkhon ferry operates seasonally; in shoulder seasons plan for queues or temporary closures during ice break-up
– Fuel up often on the north and east; do not let the tank drop below half
– Mosquitoes and midges can be intense near wetlands—repellent and long sleeves help
– Respect sacred sites (e.g., Shaman Rock); no carving, no trash, no drones where prohibited
– Avoid night driving because of animals and limited lighting
– Roadworks and gravel can cause chips—keep distance and moderate speed
– Weather changes fast; pack layers, rain gear, and a warm jacket even in summer
– Do not attempt shore-hugging tracks in wet weather with a low-clearance car; mud and ruts become impassable quickly