This route threads the untamed San’in shoreline from Himeji to Nagato, swapping bullet-train speed for salt air, dunes, shrine pines, cliff roads, and onsen valleys. It’s less crowded than the “Golden Route,” so you get big views with small crowds—especially outside peak holidays. Expect about 560–700 km depending on detours, best done in 4–6 days to savor beaches, museums, and backroads. Why go: Tottori Sand Dunes and the Sand Museum, Uradome’s teal coves, castle-and-garden classics around Matsue, the mythic Izumo Taisha, UNESCO-listed Iwami Ginzan, and Nagato’s ocean-sculpted coast. Spring and autumn bring clear skies and soft light; winter adds dramatic surf and snow on the hills.

Route start
Himeji. Pick up your car near Himeji Station for an early visit to Himeji Castle before you head northwest toward the Sea of Japan.

Route end
Nagato. Drop the car near Nagato Yumoto Onsen or continue 1–2 hours to a Shinkansen hub or regional airport in Yamaguchi.

Route stops
– Himeji → Tottori (via inland expressways or Route 29/312)
– Tottori Sand Dunes and Uradome Coast
– Matsue (castle and gardens; short detour en route to Izumo)
– Izumo (Izumo Taisha, Hinomisaki Lighthouse)
– Oda (Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine)
– Hamada (Aquas Aquarium, beaches)
– Nagato (Senjojiki, Omijima, Motonosumi Inari)

What you’ll see
– Himeji Castle and Koko-en garden (morning start)
– Tottori Sand Dunes and Sand Museum
– Uradome Coast viewpoints and short coastal hikes
– Matsue Castle; Adachi Museum of Art garden (Yasugi detour)
– Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine; Hinomisaki Lighthouse
– Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine trails and Omori preserved townscape
– Shimane Aquarium Aquas; Iwami Seaside Park
– Nagato: Senjojiki plateau, Omijima Island cliffs, Motonosumi Inari Shrine
– Optional: Akiyoshido Cave (Mine City detour)

Roads and driving
– Quality: Paved and well maintained. Coastal sections can be narrow and winding; tunnels are frequent.
– Main arteries: National Route 9 (free, slower but scenic); San’in Expressway E9 (mix of toll and free segments), connectors from Himeji via Bantan/Chugoku expressways.
– Tolls: Expressways are generally tolled. An ETC card saves time and can reduce rates.
– Speed limits: 50–60 km/h on ordinary roads; 80–100 km/h on expressways (observe posted signs).
– Enforcement: Fixed and mobile speed cameras; unmarked patrol cars. Fines are steep and points accumulate.
– Fuel and services: Gas stations in all towns; fewer 24h options in rural stretches. Expressway PA/SA areas have fuel, food, toilets. Independent service garages exist in cities; plan ahead for late-night needs.
– Parking: Plentiful near major sights; expect paid lots at popular dunes, shrines, and viewpoints. Carry coins or use cashless where available.
– Seasonal: Winter (Dec–Mar) can bring coastal squalls and snow inland; occasional chain controls on upland routes.

What to drive
– Car: A compact or midsize (1.5–2.0L) is ideal. Consider AWD and studless winter tires from December to March. Good headlights for tunnels, and a tight turning radius helps on village lanes.
– Motorcycle: 400–1000 cc touring bike with wind protection; rain gear essential on the coast.
– Tires: Summer or all-season for spring–autumn; studless winter tires in cold months.
– Equipment: ETC card for tolls, dashcam, phone mount, offline maps, USB power, reflective triangle, and a compact tire inflator. Keep cash for rural parking and small eateries.

Budget
Approximate 5-day self-drive for two people, sharing lodging (JPY/USD at 155 JPY ≈ 1 USD):
– Car rental: 35,000–60,000 JPY (225–385 USD)
– Fuel (600–700 km, 14 km/L, 170 JPY/L): 7,000–9,000 JPY (45–60 USD)
– Tolls (mix of Route 9 and expressways): 6,000–12,000 JPY (40–80 USD)
– Parking and attractions: 5,000–10,000 JPY (30–65 USD)
– Lodging (4 nights): 40,000–120,000 JPY (260–775 USD) from business hotels to onsen ryokan
– Food: 20,000–40,000 JPY (130–260 USD)
Total: 113,000–251,000 JPY (730–1,620 USD) for two. Solo travelers should expect higher per-person lodging and car costs.

Accommodation
– Himeji — Hotel Nikko Himeji (near Himeji Station)
– Himeji — Dormy Inn Himeji (central, onsen-style baths)
– Tottori — Hotel New Otani Tottori (near Tottori Station)
– Tottori — Y Pub & Hostel Tottori (downtown hostel)
– Izumo — Dormy Inn Izumo (near Izumoshi Station)
– Izumo — Takenoya (near Izumo Taisha)
– Oda — Ryokan and guesthouses in Omori (Iwami Ginzan area)
– Hamada — Shimane Hamada Washington Hotel Plaza (central)
– Hamada — Iwami Seaside Park cottages/camp (beachside)
– Nagato — Otanisanso (Nagato Yumoto Onsen)
– Nagato — KAI Nagato (Nagato Yumoto Onsen)

Food and drink
Expect matsuba-gani (snow crab in winter), rock oysters (summer), Izumo soba, fresh squid, mackerel, and Yamaguchi’s famed kawara soba and fugu.
– Himeji — Ekisoba (Himeji Station concourse; quick local noodle classic)
– Tottori — Sakyu Kaikan Restaurant (near Tottori Sand Dunes)
– Tottori — Karoichi Seafood Market eateries (Tottori Port area)
– Izumo — Arakiya (Izumo soba; near Izumo Taisha)
– Izumo — Takenoya (traditional set meals; Izumo Taisha area)
– Hamada — Casual seafood spots near Hamada Port; cafés inside Aquas Aquarium
– Nagato — Small seafood restaurants around Senjojiki and Senzaki Port; café stops near Motonosumi Inari

Safety
Police presence is professional and visible; crime rates are low. There are no bribes—fines are official and receipts are issued. Speed and red-light cameras are common; penalties for DUI are severe and strictly enforced. Emergency numbers: 110 (police), 119 (fire/ambulance). In tunnels and on cliff roads, use lights and keep safe distances.

Best time to go
– Late March–June: mild temps, cherry blossoms, fresh greens, calmer seas.
– September–November: clear skies, warm water early fall, vivid foliage later.
– July–August: beach season but humid; expect higher prices and more local travel during holidays.
– December–March: atmospheric surf and snow; beautiful but slower driving and winter gear needed.

Tips and cautions
– Drive on the left; carry an International Driving Permit if you’re a foreign visitor.
– Avoid night driving on rural coast roads due to deer/boar activity.
– Typhoon risk peaks Aug–Oct; check forecasts and coastal advisories.
– Do not drink and drive—zero tolerance.
– Many rural stations close early; refuel by evening.
– Cash is still handy at small lots and family-run eateries.
– Respect local communities: slow in villages, park only in marked areas, and pack out beach/lighthouse trash.